This is right before the 2nd Surge of the Tsunami at Cowells in Santa Cruz around 8:15. I've never seen the ocean sucked out like that before. It pulsed like that every 10 minutes until 2:00p.m. Usually it comes right to the stairs. I Surfed with my buddy Mark from 6-8a.m. at Little Wind n' Sea. When we pulled up to 26th street, there were 3 sheriff cars in the parking lot. The cops told us that the beaches were closed. I already had my wetsuit on and I was thinking 'I didn't wake up at 5:30 for nothing.' We danced around them and paddled out at rockview. The surf was epic with no one out. We could see one guy at 26th and only 3 guys at Sewers. There were tons of people on the cliffs watching for the surge. We figured we would get out if the water receded. In hind sight that plan would not have worked if it was anything thing like the Tsunami that hit Japan. We would have been sucked out and unable to paddle in. We didn't see any of the fotage of what happened to Japan prior to paddling out, other wise we won't have gone. At least I hope that I won't be that stupid. After seeing what happened to Japan my heart and prayers go out to them.
1 comment:
Good on you to realize your mistake. Yes, seeing that footage from Japan would definitely give you better perspective on the gravity of the situation:) Glad you are safe. If I were Sil I would have been p.o-ed!
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