Gobble Gobble! It's almost Turkey time and yet it feels like summer. Last weekend it was 80 degrees, and I'm not complaining. Warm Santa Ana winds blew in producing offshore winds keeping the pumping surf glassy and hallow. We came back from Hawaii expecting to throw our hoodies back on, but instead it was another week of boardshorts and slippers.
While Surfing perfect 6-8 foot Scott's Creek I had a close call.
A monster set came through and I was got inside. Unsuccessfully, I tried to duck dive, but the whitewater rooted me up, spun me around, and threw me 15 yards back into another surfer.
His board pierced all the way through my brand new JC epoxy (ultra strong material) board right where my head was. If my board wasn't in front of me, I may have been killed. I paddled in, went to the car, put some duck taped on both sides of my board, and charged back out.
Later That afternoon Sil and I went with our good friends Ryan and Amie (who just got engaged) and played at Manrissa beach and watched an insane sunset. I didn't use a filter or adjust the colors on any of the pics. I know, I know, insano in the braino right?
3 comments:
Silvia!!!
I miss you too girl! We have to catch up soon because we have so much to talk about :) love you guys!!!
donuts brah, hows that board cuz? musta took a smashins, cuz, from some beeeg papanui, eh brah,,,,,glad you survived.....try longboard sometime....we go try skate today or what?
I love your blog! You obviously update it more than I do mine. Eric will be so jealous of the surfing with Ryan. I promise I'll blog when we get home from Thanksgiving. We are in Cali visiting family right now! Cute pictures!
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